In this post, I will be sharing with you a simple tutorial how to free motion quilt feathers and examples of feather quilting. While there are many ways to go about quilting feathers, the method I am going to teach in this post is one of the methods that I have found that works for me in order to create those organic looking feathers with practically boundless possibility.
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Before we go into free motion quilting feathers, here are some of my favorite must-have tools for Free Motion Quilting on my domestic machine:
1. Superior Threads. I literally changed my minds about threads, when I started using this thread. Just read what other people has to say about it too HERE. And they come in big cones. which means they last longer before I have to change thread. I use an embroidery thread stand for it. You can get cheap thread stand like this one here.
2. Superior Threads Top Stitch Needles. I use this for all my sewing and FMQ. Really. In fact, I kind of find it a bit off when I have to use a needle that is not colored gold as these needles are. Try out different sizes with this pack.
3. My trusty sticky Glove. Any brand works for me, but I personally love the one that is breathable cotton like this one. If I don’t feel like wearing gloves, I make sure I have my Supreme Slider on the machine. Works like a charm and reduce tiring my shoulder.
4. Spray Baste. I am not a fan of taking off safety pins. This makes it so much quicker and allows me to cruise without fear of getting onto a pin. I personally love 505 Spray baste.
5. My large throat 
However, you won’t need all of these tools to start. Just a reminder, I started with the very basic sewing machine and just a regular free motion quilting foot. And still managed to quilt a queen-size quilt. Just upgrade as you feel more confident and want to ease a couple of things that bothers you.
If you are looking for a generic free motion quilting foot that suits a regular domestic machine, HERE is one with a great 5-Star review.
Examples of feather quilting
Feathers are one of the most versatile and classic quilting design that is widely used in the quilting world. I personally have fallen in love with feather quilting the minute I was introduced to the design. Feathers can easily fill a space and can be adjusted to fit just about any shape or area.
Allover feathers
Below is an example of free form feathers all over quilting I did on a mini quilt.
Mixing feathers with other quilting motif
Feathers can also be mixed with other shape and they add more character to a negative space. Below is an example of mixed shape free motion quilting which includes some feathers threading along filling in space among the pebbles, hexagons and spirals.
Feather quilting in borders
At the beginning of my quilting journey, I thought that these feather quilting were only possible to do under the long-arm machine but as I dig through the net, it is actually not limited to long arm machine and can be easily done on your own domestic machine too. However, you do have to have at least the basic of free motion quilting.
I had done a pretty large feather border using a small machine on the quilt below (at that time I own a Janome DC2050). You can read more about the quilt and watch a video of me feather quilting here.
So are you intrigued yet to try free motion quilting feathers?
Here is a step by step on how you can do so.
Feather Quilting Tutorial – How to free motion quilt feathers
1. Drawing the spine
I first start by drawing the feather spine with an erasable marker. I personally love using 
2. First feather
Once the spine is drawn, it is time to bring it under the needle. I start with the first feather on the left side at the bottom of the spine – as in the diagram (it does not matter whichever side you start with).
The feather is a paisley shape with a rather rounded head and a curved pinched end that comes back on the spine. I find that this shape is easier to be done if the motion is anti-clockwise for the left-hand side feathers. I feel like going this way round allows me to make the head of the feathers more rounded, therefore much smoother in movement.
3. Second and consequent feathers
Repeat with the second feather, being aware of the space it requires and tracking back on the first feather as it stacks.
At the concave (inward) curves, I have the feather’s body mostly laying on the spine (feather number 6, 7, 8 in the diagram).
To make the turn and a floppy feather, I have feather number 7 going around slightly further than the head of feather 6. This adds character to the feathers and makes the feathers more organic and flowy.
4. Tracking back down the spine
Now, the last feather on the left side is the feather that is at the top of the drawn spine. After stitching this feather, track back all the way back down. Try to stick as close to the drawn spine back to the bottom of the feather.
5. Repeat on the other side
Repeat the same stacked paisley feather shape on the right-hand side of the spine.
Varying the size of the feather paisley will also add more character to the feather design. Play around and have fun!
Go ahead and try it. I am sure you will find it so much fun!
Make sure you pin this so you can refer to this post when you decide to try feather quilting.
11 Comments
I have always wanted to try feathers! I’ve been too scared! Thanks for the great tutorial and template…theres no time like now to try!
Thank you, this I have to try. I’m just now waiting for the special sewing machine foot.
Thanks for posting this tutorial – it really looks easy and next time I have to sew a curved hem line I will definitely give it a go ! Warm regards, Miller
I got your template and did my first “feather”. You picture made it quite easy to do it. But I do have a question. I know they will look better with practice but the spines are messy with going over them so much. Am I doing something wrong. My first try I went down the spine but didn’t like the look so after reading your instructions a second time I got that I should start with the petal. But I did the first petal ( looked good) then the second but the second added to the first. And I noticed that when I did the second side I added more to it. Any suggestions on how I can make it neater? Thanks.
Hi Nora,
If you are having trouble backtracking along the previous stitches, just separate the feathers from each other with a small space between them. They still look beautiful – slightly different look but still feathers. The spine goes the same way. You can always come down the spine slightly away from the previous stitches (the spine that build as you make feather petals going up). This way you will have a broader spine. it is always fun to experiment with variation and see what works best for you until you can master it. Hope that helps!
testing reply
It is really nice, even better than in the previous post. I will definitely use it. Regards.
Thank You LittleMushroomcap, your news letter and Blog are packed full of useful information! I am enjoying them very much! You are a true inspiration to do more and get more done, while enjoying the process which is most important! Hope you are having a good week! Sew On
Thank you Barbara! I am glad you love the newsletters- it is exactly what I would love to do with the blog and the letters: to provide resources and info for all others and to encourage others to keep on creating and cultivate Joy. Sew on to you too!
This is so awesome!
I love the feathered look but didn’t know how to go about it. I’m wanting to get into quilting and this is so useful and (seems) simple to follow. Thank you
Hi I have signed up many times for the feather coarse and free printable but I din’t Get any email back or anything. I would love to learn how to do feathers but can’t get any of the information and I have signed up a few times and nothing. Hope I can get some help on how to proceed on learning how to do feathers.
Thank You
Connie Barber