If you are new to free motion quilting, you will most likely to encounter some of these free motion quilting problems listed here. Hopefully this guide will benefit you allowing you to enjoy the most of free motion quilting.
I am passionate about free motion quilting and I have been quilting all my quilts on my domestic machines. As I go from projects to projects, I have learned a lot from mistakes, try and errors.
Hence, I would love to share with you some of the things I learned throughout my experience and ways to solve some of the common free motion quilting problems that I have encountered before too.
I want you to enjoy most of your quilting time rather than worrying about these free motion quilting problems.
Quilt making is therapeutic – especially when it is all done, and you get to snuggle under the quilt knowing you got it done from start to finish 🙂
The 5 Common Free Motion Quilting Problems and How to Solve them
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1. Uneven tensions throughout quilting motifs ( eyelashes on curved motifs)
The bottom thread keeps showing up on top. Why is the stitches tension uneven? They show up fine on those rather straight lines, but see at those curves! They start showing up like eyelashes.
Does that sound like your problem? Your stitches looking like this photo below?
I have gone through this same problem too! Fret not, I might have just the solution for you.
I have incorporated either of the following solutions and these days, they don’t show up anymore or at least rarely do in my quilting.
i) Use a bobbin washer
Put a bobbin washer inside the bobbin case. They are basically a thin teflon cut into the shape to fit in your bobbin case. They smoothen out the movement of the bobbin, thus allowing the bobbin to make transitions between fast and slow much easier. I use this one for my domestic machine.
ii) Tension Setting
Set the correct tension setting by testing out on scrap quilt sandwich. I had some success with having the tension set to a slightly loose top thread tension than the exact right tension. Try and practice a different set of tension and see which ones works for you. Another option is to set tension to auto (if your machine has an auto setting). I have this auto tension setting on my machine and I rarely had any problem with tension ever since I got the machine.
iii) Balancing speed
Practice will make it better. Most likely the reason for the stitches to be uneven across the motif is caused by uneven balance between the speed of the stitches and the speed of your moving hand. There is a sweet balance where you’ll need to learn how to press your foot pedal (go faster) or slow down (releasing foot pedal) accordingly to your hand movement. Sometimes we are too focused on getting the shape we want, we tend to move the hand faster than the speed of the stitches.
So, one option is to just quilt fast! In my early days of free motion quilting, I find that my stitches were much better when I go fast (pressing the foot pedal and moving my hand fast).
As long as it is balanced – fast stitches, fast hand. Slow stitching, slowly moving the quilt.
But let me tell you, it is harder to quilt slow and find stability and make a smooth hand movement than just simply controlling the pedal.
2. Threads keep breaking
I had a time when my threads break every couple of minutes of free motion quilting. I persevered through the whole quilt though. Every three to four times of rethreading, I stopped and have a break myself, sip a cup of coffee or do other stuff. I was keen and full of motivation but at that time and little did I know that type of threads do matter.
i) The right threads
After testing out several types of threads and brands (I used gutterman cotton in this quilt and monofilament in this quilt), I settled with So Fine by Superior Threads and 50Wt Aurifil . I know they are pricey than the others, but they are a game changer for me. Plus they have like a million colours to choose from! Not that I use all kind of colours though.
Choosing the right threads for quilting will do wonders.
Snow White is my go to colour from Superior thread. I have a couple of Aurifil Boxes and use them when I need to use coloured threads. As for Aurifil, I use this white to do all my piecing and sometimes I quilt using them too, but I rather use So fine to do so as I bought So Fine threads in the larger cones, and boy, threads do get used up pretty quick when you free motion quilt like a lot!
I go through a cone of 3280 yds of So Fine threads for every 2-3 quilts depending on how heavy they are quilted. Generally out of 3 of my quilts, 1 of them is heavily quilted. I do love free motion quilting.
Well, if you do have issues with threads breaking, try and switch the thread. It might just be the solution!
Apart from threads, needles do play a role in easing that thread flow as you move fast and about while free motion quilting.
I found that the larger-eyed needles are much better for free motion quilting reducing the tension and the friction of the threads.
I personally love and only use this needle or this one for my piecing and quilting. While it is not necessary for piecing -it is the only needle I bought this day, so it does well for both application, so why not.
3. Uneven stitch length
Now, this one my friend is a very common thing when you are not yet in the ripe stage of your practice. Yup, this problem will surely improve with a lot of practice. Again it is the balance of your foot pedal pressing and your hand movement. However, there are a couple of things that might just ease up your free motion quilting movement skill and minimize the uneven stitches problem.
i) Free Motion Quilting glove
One : Use that sticky glove my friend. While it is not a MUST, they do help. For me, they helped a lot. When I am not using them, I can still free motion quilt well (because I had a lot of my practice time already), but I use a lot more energy to hold on to the quilt and I get tired easily. Sometimes, I still get messed up when I am not using the glove. They quilt tend to move in jerky movement due to the way I put pressure of my palm and the way the quilt is positioned on the table. Thus, I loose control of the quilt movement easily creating uneven stitches.
The glove will help you grip the quilt well, making transitions easier and movement a lot smoother. You will use less energy and can focus more on how to move the quilt rather than how much pressure you should put on the quilt to get it to move the way you need it to. I use a garden glove similar to this glove . If you rather have a proper free motion quilting glove, use this one instead of this one as the first one is breathable and the latter gets dirty too easily plus not so breathable.
ii) Teflon Slider
Another helpful notion for this matter is the Teflon Supreme Slider . You will need to reduce friction wherever you can! It makes it so much smoother to move your quilt hence using less effort which means that you can focus more on the quilting.
iii) Stitch Length Regulator
Now, I do not have the option to have these stitch regulator on my Janome Horizon 8200 QC , but I know that this has been a favourite of some quilters who has a Bernina . Bernina has a stitch regulator which either comes in the package toegther with the machine or can be bought separately depending on which type of Bernina machine. They are pricey, but they can control your stitches whether you move fast or slow, those stitches will be controlled by the stitch regulator.
4. Backing fabrics are scrunched up and folded under stitches
Yes, this is among the common free motion quilting problems. You were rocking the top and enjoying the look of those free motion and then you stopped and check the back. OOOPS, there it is — the backing fabric has been caught by the stitches. In fact, sometimes, you find that there is now way to avoid it because you quilted around and left the centre part unquilted. The backing fabric is puffed up somehow like there air bubbles. So now, you either live with it or you’ll have to take your trusty seam ripper and start ripping those hours of quilting stitches.
Well, I can tell you that there is a way to avoid this problem though. Here are two things you should start with.
i) Baste well
I cannot say more. Taking time to baste really well really made a difference to my quilting. These days, I double baste, Once with the spray baste (can’t live without this !!) and again with some basting pins sparsely. I love these curvy basting pins – they make it so much easier to pin baste.
ii) Start from the middle radiating out
I have tried a couple of methods to quilt a large quilt, but the one that works best and turns out with less or no folded backing fabrics, is when I quilt it from the middle out in radiating section. I still do large quilts in quarters, but I make sure to quilt from the centre out. The reason to that is that you will allow any extra backing fabrics to be eased to the sides. Any folds will be released at the edges as you go to the edges often.
I am not against non-stop continuos movement. I am totally okay to stop at the edge, and begin again from the centre every now and then. Besides, you will need breaks, and the bobbin needs to be changed from time to time right? So don’t worry if you have to stop, and pick up that foot to move your quilt. Simply snip off the threads and make a secure stitch when you start again (normally this means overlapping or travelling along previous quilting)
Don’t get too discouraged if you do have some folded backing here and there, most likely if this quilt is to be used around the house or gifted, it is rarely even noticed! So, be free, and just quilt it. You’ll get better at it before you even know it.
I will do a blogpost dedicated just on this issue and will be sharing a couple more tips on how to quilt a large quilt on your domestic machine. So stay tune for that!
5. Motions are limited around thick seam
i) Think ahead, press seams correctly
I guess there is no better way to solve this than to make sure the seams does not bulk as much when you are piecing them. Think ahead. You know you will hate quilting those thick seams. Especially where few seams meet up. Fan out those seams! Check out this tutorial on how to do so. I still need to keep reminding myself to do this.
If you have already done the quilt top and finding it bulky to machine quilt – try the following method instead.
ii) Large Plastic See-through FMQ foot
If you do have an option to swap free motion quilting foot, swap to the larger see-through plastic foot. I recommend finding the one that suits your machine and brand. The large foot area presses the seam down allowing you to move freely around those seams or over them effortlessly.
I own a Janome Horizon 8200 QC which has extra free motion quilting accessories included – 4 types of free motion quilting foot. I love this feature and have used all of them for different types of free motion quilting. They are all useful when you know when to use them! I shall do another blog post specifically on that. In the meantime, see if yours has a set of free motion quilting foot, otherwise, explore some of the quilting foot available that you can use with your machine.
You might also want to check out these post:
other affiliate links:
- Organize And Store Your Spools And Bobbins In These Soft, Flexible, Interlocking Trays From Keepsake Quilting!
- Set of Free Motion Quilting Foot Rulers For Domestic Machines